The seam binder ribbon is just that, a ribbon. It does add strength, but it is limited in its use and is best used to cover rough edges or seams. It also works on holding seams together. Twill tape is similar to seam binding in that it is a woven piece of ribbon only stronger.
Where bias tape is good for being sewn around an edge of a garment to crate a finished hem, twill tape has more uses. Besides reinforcing seams, twill tape is good for reinforcing button holes, etc. While bias tape is meant to be seen, twill tape is not.
One of the biggest differences between the two applications is that seam binding ribbon does not stretch. It is used as a stabilizer for those seams that tear easily. Bias tape is usually used on the seen portions of your sewing project.
Plus, it is used for those areas that require some stretch when in use. Then seam binding ribbon is usually a single layer of woven fabric whereas bias tape may have more than one layer. Also, bias tape works best in those areas of the fabric that need stretching in all directions. Seam binding ribbon only works lengthwise and cross wises.
It has little give and not usually a good material for rounded portions of your sewing project. That means you need to avoid curves when using seam binding ribbon. It is not good to use around arm holes, necklines, buttons, waistbands and more. Seam binding has a simple look to it. It is a woven roll of ribbon that is often made of rayon. It comes in a variety of colors so you can match the colors of your sewing project with ease.
Also, seam binding ribbon is often delicate and sheer. Its looks make it easy to work with without adding bulk. Its narrow design makes it perfect for those crossways and lengthwise seams, hems and rough edges you need to strengthen or hide. It unrolls from its spool quite easily and can be put in a variety of locations keeping it handy when you need to use it. The drawback to the design of the seam binding ribbon is that it is hard to work with when you come to corners.
Forget about rounded parts of your fabric as it is not designed to work in those areas. The good thing about quilts is that they are either square or rectangle, at least the majority of them are. That makes using seam binding ribbon easy to use on quilts. As stated earlier, seam binding ribbon is made for such designs. If you follow the instructions given earlier about how to do corners with seam binding ribbon, you will find that those instructions work well for quilts as well as any other fabric.
The key is to make sure the seams of the ribbon do not fall on the corners of the quilt. If they do you need to realign the ribbon to get those seams into the middle of the quilt. Also, you need to make sure you are covering the rough edge of the quilt before sewing. Pinning helps you do all of that. Follow the instructions and you should not have a lot of difficulty using seam binding ribbon on your quilts. Seam binding ribbon is not hard to use. It may be more time consuming and tedious at times but it does get the job done.
Make sure to use it where it can apply its strengths, like helping seams be stronger, finishing hems and hiding rough edges. Good luck! Thank you for this tutorial. I am pinning and referencing on my blog. Cheers, Lyric. Lovely Tutorial! Concise, clear, and to the point! What a great tutorial! I'm only just getting back into sewing after doing it a bit casually when I was much younger. My grandma had always got upset as I picked it up so easily but am, well, a little lazy… :D This was a good thing to happen upon as 1 I suppose I should probably actually finish seams when I start sewing real stuff as unravelling would be bad… and I just need to start doing this stuff correctly… and 2 I now know a great product to use to do it!
I'm sure someone has already said it, but Wawak is my fav for all notions! Thanks so much for the great tutorial!!
I tried using the hug snug a long time ago and it drove me a bit batty. I am sure to give it another try. I will be sewing a dress using sheer fabric and I'm not sure how I'll finish the seam allowances. I think I'll try this.
Thanks for the info! I love the hug snug rayon binding! I have 5 basic colors and use it a lot on blouses of late. I have had good results and love having my seams so beautifully finished. The Etsy vendor listed above is currently not offered any products. I didn't know you could wash rayon! The fabric has been pre-shrunk. I thought you needed to stay with the same fiber contents throughout, to prevent shrinkage and puckering later? This is an awesome tutorial, thank you!
I've never heard of rayon seam binding, but it's on my "must-have" list now! Hi Laura: I am binge-reading your blog. I especially appreciate this tutorial as you have given me a solid technique that I intend to use henceforth. It looks beautiful and professional, a really lovely finish. Thanks for this post, and for the blog! Pages Home Contact Me Tutorials. I often get questions about the rayon seam binding finish that I love to use.
So when Jeanette suggested a tutorial, I figured the timing was perfect! First, you will need to make sure you have the right materials. I highly recommend getting your hands on some rayon binding - it makes a real difference. Whenever possible, I like to sew my seams before applying the hem tape to the raw edges of my fabric. This way, if any stretch occurs, your piecing will not be affected.
There are a few different techniques I have used to apply the seam binding, and I am sure there are more that I am not aware of, but I will start with my favorite. Go back to your sewing machine. Push all of the fabric to the left of the needle except for one raw edge you should have the wrong side of your fabric facing you. I like to keep a spool of seam binding at my feet and unwind it as needed. For my first seam, I do not use pins, but you certainly could. I like to place the binding so a bit more than half of the binding hangs over the edge if your fabric if thick, you may want to have even more hang over the edge to accommodate the thickness.
Stitch this is place and continue unwinding from the spool at your feet until you reach the end of the fabric. Cut the binding about an inch from the edge of your fabric just in case it unravels at the cut end before you finish your garment.
Back at the ironing board, fold the remaining half of the binding so that it encases the raw edge. At this point, depending on the length of the seam, you may want to use a few pins to hold the folded over edge in place. You may not need to, however, because this stuff irons beautifully! Now you need to go back to the sewing machine and stitch that seam in place.
I usually complete these first steps on all of my lengthwise seams at once before heading to the ironing board, iron a bunch of them down, and then head back to the machine to be more efficient. This method obviously uses up a lot of thread, but I find that I get the best results. I do not have to struggle with a narrow folded piece of drapey rayon and I do not have to pre-cut lengths of binding, so in the end, I feel like it saves time and frustration.
For this method, lengths of seam binding are cut to the length of each raw edge that needs to be covered. If I go this route, I like to use pinking shears to cut the binding.
While the edges are woven and will never ravel, the cut ends have a tendency to fray. Cut your pieces of seam binding a bit longer than your seam to account for any measurement mistakes — you will not want to unpick your stitches once you have completed a long seam, and it is always better to have a little too much than not enough, right?
Go to the ironing board and fold the lengths of seam binding so that the edges are not quite even. This will ensure that your single line of stitching catches both the front and back sides of the binding. Here comes the irritating part at least for me.
Forget I said that — it may end up being you favorite part and I would not want to influence you! This time you should work with the right side of the fabric facing you. Encase the raw edge of your fabric with the thinner edge on the top and pin in place. Go back to the sewing machine and stitch as close to the edge as possible. When you turn your seam to the wrong side, you should have easily caught the back side of the binding because it is wider than the front fold.
If your stitches look a bit wavy or the binding looks ruffled, go back to the ironing board and press your seam flat with a bit of steam. Presto, you have a beautifully finished seam edge! This method is the same as the pre-fold method except that you will be hand stitching the seam binding. I have found that with a piled fabric like velvet or some thicker wools, the folded rayon does not like to stay in place with the Pre-fold method and then you have to fight your machine, the stitching line is no longer straight, and frustration ensues.
I should also confess that I find hand sewing to be incredibly relaxing unless you are on a deadline! I use a combination of a running stitch with a few backstitches every few inches to make sure that the running stitch does not gather my seam.
Account basket. Seam Binding. Matt Finish, Poly Cotton Looking for 25m whole reels? Seam Binding quantity. Description Additional information Reviews 0 Description Seam binding is the perfect partner for bunting!
Top Tip Use 25mm wide seam binding for bunting. Price is per metre. Reviews There are no reviews yet. Related products. Select options. Tartan Ribbon This is double-sided woven ribbon It is 25mm wide Simply it's tartan! Glittery Scroll Ribbon This is single sided satin wired ribbon It is 16mm wide It has a glittery scroll pattern overprinted on the Cotton Look Plain This is double-sided woven plain coloured ribbon Just the last few metres of red left now; Green and Ivory sold We use cookies on our website to give you the most relevant experience by remembering your preferences and repeat visits.
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